Trondheim

Celebrity Apex at its Trondheim, Norway berth
Copyright Andy Richards 2025

IT WAS hard to believe, but after a final "at sea" day, here we were at our final port stop: Trondheim. In retrospect, Trondheim was probably the only real "city" we visited (maybe Alesund, also). From our pre-cruise research, we knew Trondheim was not only a very walkable city, but with its population of nearly 220,000 people, would have some things we could see on our own. As I have noted, these northern Norway destinations offered very little in the way of excursions. It seems like walking tours (like "tours by foot" and similar) are simply non-existent in that part of the world. Probably a function of lack of demand? Anyway, we simply planned our own "general" walking tour.

Trondheim's Canal - Trondheim, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

TRONDHEIM IS a cool city. It doesn't necessarily rank up there with places like Barcelona, Porto and London, but as smaller, lesser known cities go, it was a fun place to visit. I was surprised to learn that it is Norway's third largest city. We found a few things to do, including a visit to a spectacular cathedral, lunch in a local gastropub with local food, and a walk along some of Trondheim's quiet streets and their canal. We also thought the cruise port was pretty impressive. There is a marine research institute facility that is housed in a basin just inside the cruise pier. I believe it is associated with the Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU), Norway's largest university. Formerly known as The University of Trondheim, it was changed to NTNU in 1996. There are satellite campuses in two other Norwegian cities (one of them Alesund). There are two other small universities in Trondheim and the total number of students in the city is nearly 42,000. So there is a bit of that "university town" atmosphere. There were some very interesting looking research vessels moored in the basin. But for my purposes, the basin served and even more useful function: a nice photographic reflecting surface. 😊

Trondheim's main canal, looking across to Bakklandet and the colorful houses on that side of the Canal - Trondheim, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

PROBABLY THE best route into the city from the cruise port is to the right as you walk away from the ship, and then straight up some stairs and into the city. The stairs take you up to a walking bridge that spans the multi-track railroad facility right next to the port. Of course we didn't see that at first, and following our maps, and "noses," we instead turned to the left and eventually back right and into town. It probably turns out that our path served our own touring plan better, as it took us along a quiet street that paralleled Trondheim's main waterway, The Nidelva River (apparently often mistaken as a canal), and to the Old Town Bridge, a footbridge across to an area known as Bakklandet.

Old Town Bridge - Honningsvag, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

FOR THE life of me, I cannot figure out what happened here, but I could have sworn I took a couple photos of the bridge. Back home, I couldn't find any on my card, and only a very small thumbnail in the dredges of my phone. Thanks, Photoshop, for the ability to "salvage" awful photos - at least enough for illustration purposes (and the careful observer will see obvious signs that I "worked" it a bit). Noted for its older, 18th century buildings, Bakklandet was actually built as a "suburb" of Trondheim. Today, it is touristy, with lots of shops and cafes. We were a bit disappointed, as the main center as you exited the bridge was under substantial construction. We didn't really stay there very long, but headed back across the canal and on into the city.

Thomas Angells Hus
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AS WE walked along, we came upon a monument to Thomas Angell. Other than that he was somebody important in Trondheim, I had no idea who he was. But as I turned to look across the street, I saw a building with the name Thomas Angell's Hus. It seemed to me that "Hus" was most likely Norwegian for "house." Man, these famous figures are vain. I don't think the thought has ever ocurred to me to put a sign on the front of any house I have ever owned: "Andy Richards' House." 😀 Just kidding. After I returned home, I did some post-visit research. Thomas Angell's Hus, it turns out, was never his personal residence. Angell was a wealthy Trondheim Merchant and at his death, he donated his fortune to a trust. The "hus" is actually housing for the elderly.

Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
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YOU PROBABLY wouldn't fault me if you were along with us, for assuming Angell had something to do with the Nidaros Cathedral given its proximity to his statue. The church was just a few hundred feet further up the street (as far as I am aware, there is no official connection). From the side street we approached it from, it was pretty obvious that this was a major church. Its gothic lines and details made for a handsome structure, and I lingered along the side for a bit, making some photographs.

Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
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AT THE front and main entrance to the church there is a large, open courtyard and from the back of the courtyard I was able to make a passable wide-angle shot of the front facade. The courtyard, by the way, was full of people, but my crop takes them out of the picture. To the left of the courtyard as you face the church, there is a concession building, where you can purchase souvenirs, limited food, and tickets for admission to the interior of the church. Perhaps most importantly, there are bathrooms in there.

The organ pipes in the Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
(my friend and former law partner, David Meyer, would admire these - if he is reading this)
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

IF YOU get to the cathedral, I highly recommend that you do purchase tickets and see the interior. In my view, that is where it is at its most spectacular.

Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

MY RESEARCH tells me that this cathedral is the northernmost medieval cathedral in the world. Like many of these huge churches, it wasn't all built at once. Beginning around 1070, it was substantially completed in 1300. Numerous additions and rennovations have ocurred of the years with the most recent (a major reconstruction project) completed in 2001.

Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

THE CHURCH is built over the burial site of Norway's King Olaf II, the Patron Saint of Norway. In addition to its important religious history, the church is the traditional location for the consecration of new Norwegian monarchs. Originally designated as the Archdiocese of Nidaros, for the Roman Catholic Church, it was changed in 1537, to become part of the newly formed Church of Norway during the Protestant Reformation. Today it is the seat of the Bishop of the Church of Norway.

Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

I DON'T always overpopulate my posts with images of the same place, but I was so impressed with this church's interior, that I just kept making images - and feel compelled to display them.

Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
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OF THE many churches and cathedrals we have seen over the past 15 or so years, I think this is the most impressive that I have visited!

Nidaros Cathedral - Trondheim, Norway
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WE LEFT the church in an appropriately reverent frame of mind. But biology can have a way to influence the circumstances, and we walked on, into one of the city's primary squares, with food on our minds.

Trondheim's Courthouse - Trondheim, Norway
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MARKET SQUARES or plazas are called torgs in Scandinavian languages. We were seeking Trondheim Torg, which is a large, retail/commercial plaza in the heart of the city. Using Google Maps, we took kind of a roundabout path to the Torg. Looking now on the map, if we had taken the straightest shot, we would have walked right by Trondheim City Hall. But then we would have missed the Trondheim Tinghus. And you know, you don't want to miss seeing a tinghus when you have the chance. As I walked by, the unique decorations on the entrance caught my eye, as did the unique (to and English language speaker) name on the building. I have to admit, my mind went somewhere else when trying to think what a tinghus might be. 😅 Turns out (perhaps thankfully for all involved) it is a courthouse. Once I realized that, the figures on the walls began to make some sense.

McDonald's in the heart of Trondheim Torg
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ONE OF the things you can count on these days is finding a McDonalds (and usually Burger King, too) in almost any city in the world. I have made it a point to photograph them when I see them, and have a collection in my archives. Here it was, right in the middle of things on Trondheim Torg. Eat there? Not on your life. I do my best to avoid them even here at home. I wouldn't dream of visiting some place  in a different culture and going to McDonald's. Ironically enough, literally across the street, we found something much better: Phoenix Gastropub. We learned a bit about Scandinavian cuisine that day. Other than a lot of seafood (and things like sardines and herring), their food isn't particularly "ethnic." But they way the eat it is unique. I ordered a corned beef sandwich. My wife ordered their Skagen, which was kind of like a shrimp salad. For the table, we had an order of Nordic Sardines and of Marinated Olives. for my corned beef, I was thinking sandwich. The two-fisted variety. I think she was thinking traditional salad. To our surprise, all of our entrees were sandwiches and all of them were served open-faced! That is apparently a very common Scandinavian presentation. Worked just fine for me. Used a fork. The upshot: very tasty! Todd and I also shared an "appetizer" which was sardines and crackers, served right in the tin. They were good, as was the local popular lager beer. Interestingly, the pub gets some mixed reviews on TripAdvisor (which is too bad, as it might dissuade folks from giving it a try. We think that would be a mistake. The 4 of us were unanimously in the 5-star camp! Sometimes, I think people's reactions and comments are a product of their expectations. When you are in an unfamiliar and new country, I think you need to be adventurous and put those expectations aside!

Thomas Angell's Gate - Trondheim, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

SATED, WE moved along. There was more. About 3 blocks in the general direction of the cruise ship terminal, we came upon a retail shopping street: Thomas Angell's Gate. Sound like a familiar name? That guy who was the wealthy merchant who donated his fortune to a foundation. Same guy.

Thomas Angell's Gate - Trondheim, Norway
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WHAT WAS really cool about Thomas Angell's gate though was for me a photographic opportunity. This was one that has become a recurring motif around the world. My first exposure with The Pink Street in Lisbon, Portugal, some years back. More recently, I discovered a much smaller, but equally colorful and photogenic display near our home - in Dunedin, Florida. in just a couple weeks we will visit Puerto Plata in the Dominican Republic, where it is my understanding that there is yet another "umbrella street." The colorful, hanging umbrellas are a magnet for a color street photographer, and this was no exception. It is the largest such display I have seen yet, which gave me multiple compositional chances.

Thomas Angell's Gate - Trondheim, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

ANOTHER LONG day in the books. We could say that our self-made walking tour of Tronheim was a great success, and we had a lot of fun exploring. We were ready to head back to the ship and take a load off. It was a beautiful, sunny afternoon, and we were looking forward to sitting on the Sunset Bar deck with cigars and cocktails, and a sunset sail-away.

Only this canal from the Nidelva River out to the ocean, and some railroad tracks separated us from Trondheim and our Cruise Ship -Trondheim, Norway
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FROM THE end of Thomas Angell's Gate it was only about 3 city blocks, in a straight line, back to the cruise port. We had only to cross the canal in front of the port, and find our way across the railroad tracks. This time, we did it by the book, and took the pedestrian walkway back to the port. It was good to see our Celebrity Apex in sight in the nearby background.

Footbridge from the City to the Cruise Port - Trondheim, Norway
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WE WOULD have a couple more days at sea to get back to Southampton, and then a ride to LHR, where we would bid our great friends goodbye. But only for now. We already have a couple future cruises booked together. And perhaps we will do a visit somewhere before then. In the meantime, we made the best of those last two days.

Cigars on the Celebrity Apex
Trondheim, Norway - Southampton, England

Honningsvag and the North Cape

Fishing Harbor near Honningsvag Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

HONNINGSVAG's POPULATION is 2250, and though its primary industry is fishing, it has also become a significant tourist destination, as "the gateway" to the North Cape. While there are a couple other very small towns north of Honningsvag, it is really the northernmost community with any real port facilities. We arrived in the port at 10:00 a.m., and shortly were able to disembark. Our meeting place for the tour we had booked was literally steps from the ship area, so getting there was easy.

I don't know this guy, but he is clearly excited about being at the northernmost point in Europe 😆
North Cape Visitor Center - Norway
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IT MAY have gone downhill from there. I guess I have to qualify that statement, though (and explain "may"). Over the years we have been doing cruises around the world, we have had mostly very good luck with high quality, well-organized tours. But most of ours have been private tours with participant numbers between 4 and 12. We have observed that as those numbers get larger, the tour quality tends to go south - no matter where in the world you are. As we began our planning for the Nortwegian Fjords cruise nearly a year in advance, I was struck by how few private excursions seemed to be available. Partly, I am sure, because these destinations were so far north and often in very small areas. It did seem there would be more available in the more populous cities in the southern part of Norway. We only found a couple and they seemed to us to be uniformly expensive. The North Cape Tours all seem to be run by the same company and although they did have some smaller ones available, they again seemed awfully expensive for the experience offered. Ours was a large busload. We did get up to the North Cape Visitor Center, and we can say we saw the northernmost land spot in Europe, so there is that. It wasn't a terrible experience.

North Cape Visitor Center - Norway
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BUT IT wasn't really as advertised. Unfortunately, there was a certain level of hyperbole in their advertisement. "A visit at a Sami family with traditional Sami outfits and a reindeer.'" There was a house along the road, and across the road, a Tee-Pee, a chained up reindeer, and a tent with "souvenirs." When the bus stopped and unloaded a guy came walking across the road from the house. He was dress in apparently native garb. He walked over and stood with the reindeer what a crowd of tourists shot selfies with him." So, yeah. It was a stop. But a visit with a family, and the implication of reindeer plural? Not so well executed. Or, "A visit to a picturesque fishing village with its harbour and fishing boats." Right. The bus drove into the parking lot of the the harbour, and never even stopped, as the narrator described the fishing village and pointed out the boats. 😒 That's a "visit?" "View stops overlooking fjords, ocean and the monumental North Cape Cliff." Nope. No stops. None. We stopped at the reindeer selfie op, and at the North Cape Visitor Center. No place else. And finally, "Sightseeing through the arctic town of Honningsvag with its sights and attractions." Well. if driving down a couple of the streets, pointing out the church and park as we drove by is "sightseeing" then I guess I have to give them that. All in all: Underwhelming. But such as it is, it appears to be the only "game in town," so if you want to see the sights, that's your choice.

This was the "traditional Sami family with reindeer" stop. I did a bunch of retouching of this image to try to give it some semblance of what could have been scenic natural surroundings. In reallity, he was tethered. He was not the one being used in the selfies. But he sure looks like he could be majestic there. Instead, I felt kind of sorry for him
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

I DON'T want to dissuade people from going to Honningsvag - or from taking a trip up to the North Cape Visitor Center. It is one of those things where you want to check it off your list. We did and we don't regret that. But just don't set your expectations too high. And in fairness, maybe I did do just that. It was not a particularly expensive excursion, and maybe I was being unrealistic with my expectations based on the reading of their advertising, rather than my perception of what might be realistic in that price range.

The Picturesque Fishing Harbor we "visited" - somewhere between Nordkap and Honningsvag
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

WE ALSO thought the little town of Honningsvag was, itself, kind of cool. We found the local "craft brewery." It was appropriately "rustic" for its size and for the size and nature of the town (and really felt more like just a local bar). That was actually fun. The bartender was friendly and we enjoyed the stop. I also liked the harbor and fishing boats and made a few images I liked. And Heather pointed out an image I very likely would have missed that was part of the brew pub and was really a great find! In all, it may have been one of our better stops on the cruise, ironically. We still had one more ahead of us, after another "at sea" day. It would prove to be perhaps the most enjoyable of any of them - with some of my better picture opportunities. Next up: Trondheim.

Honningsvag, Norway
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THOUGH OFTEN more travelog than photography these days, this is a photography blog. And in that context, I will say this was a pretty successful outing. Colors. Reflections. Marine subjects. Whimsical images. I did find some pretty nice ones.

Tromso and The Huskies

Huskies - Tromso, Norway
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FOLLOWING OUR adventures in Flam, the next day, Saturday, was a day at sea. We were headed well north, up into The North Sea, and the Arctic Circle. By Sunday, when we reached Tromso, we were closing in on as far north as we could get - but not quite. We scheduled our only ship-sponsored excursion of the trip for this day. Our only organized excursions for the entire cruise were a trip on the Flam Railway,  and an independently sponsored excursion up into the North Cape (Nordkap) - the furthest North one can travel by land in Europe; above the Arctic Circle. And today's ship-based excursion, which was a trip to a facility where they birth, raise, and train sled dogs. They are all a type of Husky breed, bred to withstand the cold weather and harsh environment, as well as their seemingly endless energy for running and pulling. They absolutely love to run.

Tromso, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

ALTHOUGH I was hopeful for some good photo opportunities, the facility - perhaps disappointingly - did not really lend itself to good photography. All the dogs were either in fenced enclosures or on leads. Understandably, as they might otherwise run, and things would certainly be out of control. Lest the images I included here mislead you, the dogs did not appear to be under poor conditions. The accomodations were clean and well maintained, the dogs all appeared happy and enthusiastic. They get regular exercise during the day, also. There were several busloads of people, so it was crowded. I really hadn't had high expectations. The dogs, though, were very friendly, if a little frenetic. One of the things you will want to be prepared for if you do make one of these visits, though, is the dogs are not particularly clean - they are not bathed regularly and they smell. Not that they are dirty (as you can see from the photos, they seem healthy and well-kept), but they need to keep a certain amount of their natural body oils, in order to ward off the cold. It will get on your hands and clothes. In a way much like being on a livestock farm. As I like to say, "first world" problems.

Tromso Harbor, Tromso, Norway
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BUT COMING into the port at Tromso did present some of the best photography opportunities of the trip. The morning light was really beautiful, and there were a few nice scenes with snow-capped mountains and fishing boats. These northern countries can be dreary - with lots of cloud cover, rain, and cold temperatures. I have noticed that one of the things they do to make things more cheery is to paint their buildings and boats in bright colors. That makes it nice for us photographers. So thanks Norway, for that! 😃

Tromso Harbor; Tromso, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

SURPRISINGLY, TROMSO is the 12th largest city in Norway, with nearly 80,000 inhabitants. We didn't really spend much time in the city, though we did stop at a museum and see a movie after our visit to the Huskies. We did a "drive-by" of the famous Ice Cathedral, but I never really go a great shot of it.

Those eyes! - Tromso, Norway
Copyright Andy Richards 2025