I WAS up and out early this morning. I didn't have any specific destination in mind, but I just wanted to get out and take advantage of the early morning light (for once it wasn't actively raining) and explore the immediate area. It was just getting light when I left the building and as I have said, there was a lot of "fodder" right around our place. I walked around, looking for something interesting. Around a corner I had I thought there might be some interest from the curved street which was just "waking up" for the morning. I stood and watched for a while and then waited while the red car approached. I liked the headlights and their reflection on the still wet street. When the car reached the curve, I made the image below.
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Mala Strana - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
BACK HOME a week or so later, as I looked at (and processed) the image, I knew I would like it better with just "a little something." I had become acquainted with a photographic technique called the "Orton" effect, that was perhaps "all the rage," a few years back. I never really learned about it at the time, but it came up in a "critique/illustration" of one of my photos by Martin Bisof (the Prague pro we hired to guide us around Prague one afternoon/evening). After a bit of research and some "fiddling" with some of my images, looking at this one, I thought: maybe . . .?
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Mala Strana - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
I WALKED in the other direction, just around the block and through the arched entrance to The Charles Bridge, just a short way toward Prague's "Old Town," just across the river. It is pretty easy to see that this bridge has lots of photographic potential. Being so convenient to our VRBO, I would spend a fair amount of time shooting there during our stay.
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Charles Bridge (Mala Strana in the background) - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
THIS MORNING, I made just a couple images: one of the bridge, and one from the bridge, before heading back to see if anyone was stirring yet.
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Mala Strana "Neighborhood" (from the Charles Bridge) Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
WHEN I returned to the apartment a few minutes later, only Bruce was up. We had no specific plan for the morning, but I did have a couple things I wanted to visit and see. We walked across the street to a little local spot (actually directly behind where I stood for the red car picture) for some breakfast, and while eating, decided to tackle the huge, old castle that was up on the hill behind us in Mala Strana: Prasky Hr'ad (Prague Castle). We calculated that it was just one or two stops on the tram right in front of our residence, so we jumped on and sure enough, our third stop was named Prague Castle. I think I mentioned that one of the really cool things about Prague was the "65 and over ride free" feature. It was nice not worrying about tickets. We just got on and off wherever and whenever we wanted to. This was probably about a 5 minute ride from the time we jumped on at our stop to the Castle. And we were right at the entrance.
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Prague Castle - Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
THOUGH BY now these things shouldn't, the entire complex of the castle and surrounding area surprised me. As far as I am concerned, the focal point (I didn't realize it as we approached, but it became pretty apparent after we entered) of the castle is the magnificent and impressive gothic masterpiece: St. Vitus Cathedral. I was apparently dazzled enough by the approaching buildings and the front facade of the castle itself that, though my image below attests, I did see the cathedral, and both my mind and my photographic presentation suggests I thought of it as secondary and in the background. But I didn't really "see" the cathedral. That is, until I walked into the castle interior grounds.
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St. Vitus Cathedral - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
AS I have noted in previous blog posts, "cathedral" designates the principal or official "seat" of the diocese, where the Bishop generally presides (in this case, the Archbishop of Prague). As such, St. Vitus is probably the most important church in Prague and certainly the most popular for visitors. Indeed, Wikipedia asserts that St. Vitus is the "largest and most important church in the country."
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St. Vitus Cathedral - Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
COMLETE WITH flying buttresses and French-Gothic architecture, construction of the current-day church was begun in 1344 and continued, but in fits and starts, and until 1929! It was worth the the wait. I have seen a few churches in the past few years - many of them hugely impressive. But at this point, I can unequivocally say that St. Vitus is the most impressive classic church I have ever seen. And what is crazy is that I didn't even get inside. I have since learned that the St. Wenceslas Chapel is also an amazing work of art and architecture.
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St. Vitus Cathedral - Mala Strana - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
DOWN TO the details, this Castle-Cathedral complex is awe-inspiring. I spent some time making some more intimate images, as well as trying to get the "grand" perspective here.
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Architectural Detail - St. Vitus (gothic) Cathedral - Mala Strana; Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
IT IS possible that there is actually a photographic setting in which the dark, dreary weather we were experiencing actually might enhance the mood of the image. If there is such a setting, it would be the dark, gothic architecture we saw here.
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St. Vitus Cathedral - Prague Castle - Mala Strana; Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 |
OVER THE years (in this case 100's) it took to finish a complex like Prasky Hr'ad from start to completion, quite a few different architectural styles and trends were ultimately incorporated into these marvels of construction. Perhaps the yet unfinished La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona is the best example of an architectural work that has incorporated centuries of different design styles and yet remains magnificent.
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Where Church and State collide: Passageway from Prasky Hrad to St. Vitus Cathedral Mala Strana; Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
IN THE case of St. Vitus, the originally medieval gothic is today a mix of that old gothic, and romanesque, renaissance and baroque components. I was duly impressed with the skill with which they incorporated the "newer" materials and design with the medieval gothic. I thought the passageway from the castle living quarters to the cathedral was a particularly striking example.
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Passageway from Prasky Hrad to St. Vitus Cathedral in B&W Mala Strana; Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
IN TERMS of its photographic "draw," I also like the juxaposition of the different architechural styles, tones and colors. Compositionally, I try to get the "lesser" and more distant castle structures to appear within the arch in the far background to give the image more depth, as well as giving the still-wet stone in the foreground a prominent place in the photograph. I also liked how the stairways on both sides of the image in the foreground served as anchors to the sides of the image.
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Prague Castle - Mala Strana - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
THIS WAS a scene where I actually spent a bit of time on site thinking about its composition and how I might ultimately render the image. And, not shockingly, given the dark skies and gothic weight in the image, I knew this was one that I would look to in post as a possible B&W image. I made several different "versions" of my B&W rendering. The image here is the one I liked best. If you want to see comparisons, there are a couple different images in my B&W gallery on my LightCentricPhotography photographic website.
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Main Courtyard - Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
SO IMPRESSIVE is the cathedral that the reader might be influenced to think it was the only part of the complex worth photographing. I certainly don't want to misguide you there. Other parts of the complex are equally photogenic. Contra to the somber, dark, gothic tones of the Cathedral, the balance of the castle is actually quite bright and colorful, given its time in history. It is a long and narrow, sprawling complex, perched on the crest of a hill, overlooking Mala Strana. It runs roughly from the northeast (today the main entrance) to the southwest.
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St. George's Basillica - Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
AS WE walked past the main courtyard to our right and the imposing cathedral to our left and through the archway under the passageway, more of the complex opened in front of us, with the surprisingly colorful red masonry of the Baroque fronted, but Romanesque designed St. George's Basilica (designated as a second church for the castle). According to what I could glean from "the usual sources" (Google and the internet - for whatever its accuracy is worth), the Romanesque design is depicted by the twin steeples, but the colorful and more ornate facade is Baroque. Originally built for the Benedictine Order during the late 1st century, it was reconstructed after a devastating fire more than a century later. The Baroque elements were added later yet, and eventually included a Baroque style chapel in the interior. At the time we were there, I spent a few minutes photographing the striking exterior building and courtyard, but we did not know the history, or that this was actually a separate church from St. Vitus. Next time I visit Prague, I will make it a mission (pun intended) to see the interiors of both St. Vitus and St. Georges.
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"Main Entrance" to Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
WE HAD originally entered the castle from the northwest side where we got off the tram. To the west is another gate (Matyas Gate) which is the original main entrance to Prasky Hr'ad. As you look out, you see , a large plaza that fronts the main entrance. The large buildings ringing the square are almost all private palaces. At one time, in their place there were small residences of the local Czech citizens. Those residences were sadly destroyed by a terrible fire which destroyed all of them, as well as parts of the castle (including the cathedral and basilica). Afterward, wealthy aristocrats began buying up the land and building personal residential palaces with the goal of having residences near the Castle. Many of these palaces today house museums and other public institutions. behind them, however, there appears to be relatively affluent, mostly residential housing (multi-occupant). After walking a bit, we went back to the castle.
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View of Prague from Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
FOR A photographer especially, but also for every other visitor, the area I just described leads to the south side of the Prague Castle, where there is a walled walkway and a couple viewpoints providing a terrific, sweeping view to the southeast out over Mala Strana, and beyond, to Prague's Old Town.
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Starbucks - adjacent to Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
PRAGUE HAS its share of the now ubiqutous chain retail establishment, including, of course several Starbucks. At least the one at the Castle is unique. We jumped back on the tram and headed back down to our VRBO, to see what the ladies were up to.
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View of Prague from Prague Castle - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
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View of Prague from Prague Castle Viewpoint - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
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View of Prague from Prague Castle Viewpoint - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
BRUCE AND I were going to meet Martin over on the Old Town side later in the afternoon, and the ladies had a couple destinations they wanted to check out. We decided to walk across the Charles Bridge and see what there was to see over there, and grab lunch somewhere. We walked over the bridge and headed into the Old Town.
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Old Town; Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
UNFORTUNATELY, THE rain was not showing any signs of letting up. I had visions of walking down these same cobblestoned streets with a blue and white sky in the distance. Not this day. But the prediction was that it would let up and dry out as the afternoon went on. This proved to be true. Though it did not necessarily produce nice lighting, we were at least able to stay dry.
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Old Town; Prague, Czech Republic |
THE ONLY bright spot, photographically, was the ocassional brightly colored umbrella or rain coat, though as I have noted above, I do like the wet look of the cobblestones. We eventually found a restaurant under umbrellas in the main Old Town Square near the Old City Hall. After lunch and a rest, we split up, Bruce and I heading for our rendezvous - near the Powder Gate Tower, and the ladies heading off to find a few things on their list.
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Powder Gate Tower - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved. |