WE BEGAN our first full day in Prague with a walking food tour. Fortunately for us, following the ordeal of the prior day's train ride, a relatively late evening, and a lot of time on our feet, the tour didn't begin until 11:00 a.m. Also fortuitous was the fact that the tour started almost immediately across the street from our VRBO. In fact, the tour essentially confined itself to the Mala Strana neighborhood of Prague. Our lodging for the days in Prague sat right in the heart of Mala Strana, with the Mala Strana main tram stop immediately out our door, and the western entrance to The Charles Bridge around the corner just a block away. Joyce had a friend who had highly recommended the apartment - and we could not have chosen a better spot.
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Our Tram Stop in front of our doorstep - Church in the Background was food tour meeting place - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
WE FOUND our tour guide and group easily enough, and off we went. The first place we stopped a really good soup (there were actually 2 different soups to choose from, and I ended up thinking I would have liked the one I didn't choose better). We could see this restaurant when standing in front of the door of our VRBO, and we ended up there for dinner later that evening. I got my soup. It was good - and it was better than the one I had tried in the morning (which was also very good). We tried a couple other samples of local food. It was all good. The Czechs like hearty food. Lots of meat, bread and cheese. Very much reminds me of my friend, Bob's observation about the "best" Swiss food being "peasant" food. The one place that was most memorable to me was (again, literally around the corner from our place), a sandwich shop. I never did really get the name of the sandwich, but apparently this open-faced sandwich is a popular favorite with the locals. I really wanted to get back there, but the only day that really worked was on the weekend and the shopkeeper told me they only had them on weekdays (presumably for the working lunch crowd). They are on my list for our next Prague visit. The other thing that was nearly omnipresent during the food tour and at most other times in Prague: Beer! We got the chance to taste a couple different ones. I have to say, enjoyed all the beers we consumed during this entire trip.
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Beer Tap in one of our Restaurants (the first one mentioned in the narrative) Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
KIND OF an aside from photography, but beer figures mightily in to Czech culture. Our last stop before our final destination on the train to Prague was nearby Pilsen, Czech Republic. Czechia's 4th largest city, what Pilsen is really known for is the uniquely Czech style lager beer that was first brewed there: Pilsner style Lager Beer. The largest Czech brewery (and the most popular Pilsner beer) is Pilsner Urquell. I am not a big beer guy, though I have certainly learned to enjoy the beer we have had in Europe, from Ireland, to Portugal, to Germany. And now - Czech Republic. When I have enjoyed a "cold one" back in the U.S., one of my favorites has been the Canadian Lager, Labatt's Blue (which brands itself as a "Pilsner-style Lager." Some quick and dirty internet research tells me that a "Lager" beer is a particular brewing style, known as "bottom fermentation," which generally produces a smooth, light, crisp beer. Pilsner is, as noted above, a Czech-originated lager style beer whose characteristics are light, clear, smooth beer with a hoppy, but not bitter taste. Pilsners are generally between approximately 4 - 5% ABV. Labatt's Blue is 5%. Maybe I am onto something here.
ANYWAY, I always thought of Germany (and in particular, Bavaria) as the center of the world when it comes to beer. The Czechs would beg to differ, and they may well be correct. In spite of the hoopla surrounding Octoberfest, The statistics I found online suggest that the Czech Republic is the world's largest per capita beer consumer. And, it also appears that by a signicant margin, Pilsner style Lagers are the most popular in the world. I would caution that I am not an expert on beers, and that the word: "Pilsner" appears to sometimes be used imprecisely to define a "light-colored" version of Lager. Brewing beer has been in place for 100's of years, with evidence of brewing in Břevnov Monastery as far back as 993. Pilsen and České Budějovice ("Budweis" in German), had breweries in the 13th century. When I am doing "after-visit" research on things we found and experienced, I always seem to learn a fascinating little tidbit. The "Budweiser" controversy in the in the sidebar is an interesting, if not humorous aside.
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Below the bridge at street Level - Mala Strana; Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 |
BUT ENOUGH about beer. Getting back on the street, we walked down some stairs along the south side of The Charles Bridge to the part of Mala Strana that is under and below the bridge, down at river-level. We eventually arrived at a shop where we had some kind of cookie (it reminded me vaguely of the stroopwaffels we had in Rotterdam). This shop was near a prominent art center and we got our first view of the "peeing" men (we would return later, with our photography guide for a photo from a different perspective - and a better explanation of the significance of the sculpture). It was humourous and there were some "selfie-potential" photos that I did not attempt.😏 Our guide didn't really explain the significance of the sculpture. She did tell us that at times there were running fountains - but as you can see from the image below, they weren't running at the time we were there.
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"Peeing Men" Sculpture - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 |
I MAY have mentioned that we got some rain during this trip? 😏 We did see some relatively nice, sunny weather toward the end of the week, but this morning was more of the same. I would say that by the time we were in Prague, the rain was about a 50/50 proposition (so an improvement). Our walking tour ended at a sweet shop that was on the corner of our building - so convenient for us. That was just up the street from the western gate of the Charles bridge. The people standing there are actually on the "Old Town" side of the bridge, across from Mala Strana, where we ventured just briefly before returning to Mala Strana.
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East entrance to The Charles Bridge; Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
WE WERE pretty tired after the tour, which ended probably around mid-afternoon. Having eaten at nearly every stop we made, we certainly weren't hungry for lunch, so we went back to our place and took a load off. Bruce and I had originally scheduled our time with the local pro photographer for that night, but he contacted me and noted that continued rain was predicted and we re-scheduled for the following night, which looked more promising. After some "down time," we found our way back the first restaurant and had a nice meal, and then we were pretty much in for the night. I was restless and feeling like I really hadn't had much chance to see the city) though the food tour did get us to some of it. I was determined that I was going to be up and out the next morning - whether anybody else was or not. Our next two days were more or less "unscheduled," though we did have a few places we wanted to see.