LightCentric Photography Blog: Zurich

WE ARRIVED at the Zurich Airport about mid-morning, to overcast conditions. We had done some research before the trip and were planning to take the tram from the airport to our hotel in Central Plaza in the heart of downtown Zurich. Like any new venue, we fumbled our way through the airport and eventually out to where the trams were. Like many European cities, Zurich has a very good public transportation system which allows for a ride ticket that covers all modes of transportation. Finding the ticket machines was relatively easy. Figuring out how to purchase them was another thing, and we fiddled with that for a while. Having finally figured it out, the next adventure was determining which tram. We knew the number we needed, but weren't sure which direction. Since we had ticket that were good for several days, we knew we just had to get on, and if we guessed wrong, we would get off and go the other way. We guessed right, and it was about 20 minute ride to the hotel.

WE CHECKED in and got cleaned up. We had a walking tour of the city scheduled for that afternoon, which was good timing, as we thought it would give us a feel for the city for our remaining time there. Our meeting spot was the Hauptbanhauf, which is the main rail station for Zurich. We were delighted to find that we were directly across the river and about a block away from the station, which we would use time and again during our Zurich stay. About 5 minutes on foot.

Street in front of our Central Plaza Hotel
Hauptbanhof and Limmat River in the Background
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

NELLIE WAS our enthusiatic guide for the day and she showed us an awful lot of the city in a couple hours. Although we didn't realize it at the time, Zurich's city center is surprisingly compact for an inner city of nearly 500,000 (the metro area is closer to 1.5 million). As we later acclimated ourselves to the area, I walked around to a lot of city in the mornings. We started right inside the impressive Hauptbanhof Station, Switzerland's largest train station and one of the busiest in Europe. The suspended figure in the station is supposed to signify peace and protection.

FROM THE Hauptbanhof, we walked south out of the station and took a tram a on the main street (Banhofstrasse), in the area where the "high end" shops lined the street. Every name you can think of was represented along that part of the Banhofstrasse, as well as a few very ritzy bars and restaurants. I made a couple whimsical photos of the shop windows. Here.

All I Could think of with this one was the line from A Chrismas Story: "you'll shoot your eye out with that thing"
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

WE TOOK the tram all the way down to the end of the Banhoffstrasse, where we started Nellie's full tour, working our way back toward our hotel, eventually. Here we were at the north end of Lake Zurich.

THE FLOWER clock is one of Zurich's proud attractions. In season, it blooms with a colorful mix of flowers. In the fall, even though not as colorful, it is planted with fall plantings to give it interest.

BACK TOWARD the city from the lakefront, we walked along Fraumuensterstrasse, toward Fraumuenster Kirche. You can see the twin steeples of Grossemuenster Kirche, across the Limatt river, from the front of Fraumuenster. Now owned by (and part of) the Reformed Church of The Canton of Zurich (which owns 4 churches including Grossemunster and St. Peter's), this church was once the site of a women's monastery. Originally under the umbrella of the Holy Roman Empire, it was granted the status of an abbey, which meant that at the time, it was largely independent - answerable only to the emperor himself. The abbess consequently gained great power in the city, at one time being the appointor of the mayor of the city.

INSIDE THE entrance is a beautiful courtyard. The corridors lining the courtyard has some wonderful old frescoes painte on the walls. With only "street gear," photographing the courtyard was difficult. I did make the one image I liked here, of one of the corridors.

FROM FRAUMUNSTER, we walked across the Munsterbrucke, a bridge dating back to th 12th century, crossing the Limmat and connection the two 12th century churches: Fraumunster and Grossmunster, and passing by Wasserkirch, a 13 century church and crypt. From the terrace at Grossmunster, we could see the somewhat massive steeple of the St. Peter Church back across the river.

CROSSING BACK over the Limmat, we walked on (and up a fairly steep grade) toward St. Peter Church. The original church was built in the 8th century and was - prior to the Reformation - the only parish church in the city (Fraumunster and Grossmunster both being monastery churches). It has been rebuilt twice, with the current building being built under Protestant rule, and consecrated in 1706. It sits near Lindenhoff Hill, the site of a former Roman castle, and now the famous Lindenhoff Plaza. Architecturally, St. Peter's unique feature is its massive clock tower. Measuring nearly 30 feet in diameter, it is the largest clock tower face in all of Europe.

UP THE hill from St. Peter's Church is Lindenhof Platz. Today this former Roman castle grounds is perhaps Zurich's most famous viewpoint. It is also a nice, quiet park from which citizens can view the Limmat River and the east side of the city.

WHILE WE couldn't specifically spot it, we could theoretically see our hotel from up there. Nonetheless, the views were impressive, and this spot had been one of my "punchlist" spots to photograph from.

DURING OUR stay, Zurich hosted the 2024 UCI Paracycling Road World Championship Race. It caused some roadblocks and disruptions to the mass transit routines, but not a seroius problem. I really didn't carry the equipment necessary to photograph something like this. Nor was I able to put in the time and preparation necessary to make great photographs. But I did get a chance during our tour to snap a couple."

I AM always looking for unique and interesting (to me anyway 😁) shots as I walk the streets. The lifesize cow coming out the window of a second story above a restaurant captured my attention.

I OFTEN see clocks and signs I like, especially when they seem to be in an interesting, or visually arresting setting.

WHEN WE were in Lisbon, Portugal for several days in 2022, one of the fun things we did was ride a funicular (and photograph it) up from street level to one of the high viewpoints in the city. Lisbon's main business district was in a valley and within 2-3 blocks of each side of the middle, things quickly went steeply uphill. While a walk to the viewpoint was possible, the funicular made it much more palatable. Likewise, just behind our hotel in Zurich was a steep uphill area that had both residential and businesses. Behind our hotel up a slight grade there was a set of stairs up.

THE POLYBAHN was a funicular that was similar to the one in Lisbon. I didn't actually ride it, but I couldn't resist shooting it from the ground. I had read of its existence (it is one of the modes of transportation covered by the "all modes" multiple day ticket we had) but wasn't sure where it was in relation to our hotel. I found it by accident the first morning. I had spotted a Starbucks just around the corner and across the street near the busy tram stops (coffee is - surprisingly - often a challenge on our visits to Europe. They drink it differently than we do. I start my day with a large, hot, and dark roast full cup of coffee. The Europeans often drink either esspresso or capacinos. When they do drink it "Americano" - an esspresso with a shot of hot water - they drink very small cups. Finding it the way I like it is sometimes challenging, unless I can find a chain. Starbucks is expensive and not necessarily my favorite, but it is consistent). I walked over to the Starbucks my first morning and was surprised to find a line out the door and onto the street. I dutifully stood in line which suddenly moved very quickly and I found myself inside the building. I was surprised that I had to climb a set of stairs, but when I arrived, I was bewildered to find myself not at a coffee counter, but at a funicular platform! Oops. Wrong door. 😕. Mystery solved. I had found the funicular. The Starbucks, I discovered, immediately next door and there was no line!

coffee is - surprisingly - often a challenge on our visits to Europe. They drink it differently than we do

IT WAS a long day. We found our way back to our motel and had a small sandwich and a drink at the motel's very nice bar, and retired for the night. We had train tickets to Lucerne the next morning, and thanks to the walking tour, we knew right where we needed to be.

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Saturday, October 26, 2024

Zurich - The First Day

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