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| Zurich, Switzerland Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
I STARTED this series out by commenting on how impressed we were with efficiency of the Swiss in nearly everything they do, but particularly how well we like the Swiss train system. I also mentioned things in terms of vaunted Swiss and German efficiency, at the same time foreshadowing a different story. From everything we knew we expected the German setup to be, clean and efficient. From everything we experienced in Switzerland we expected the German setup to be as ultraefficient and well run as the Swiss. For the most part, our experience in Munich was only with their tram system, and it appeared to be mostly efficient and well run, with one (unfortunately recurring) issue.
A warning for anyone traveling to Munich. Many (maybe most) of the trams do not have credit card readers. They are cash only - coins only
IN MUNICH, as we exited the train station and found the trams, we found that there were ticket dispensing machines right in the train cars. The first one we boarded had a modern, seemingly efficient, credit card reading machine and we rather easily procurred tickets for 4 of us. We assumed (and you know what that means) that they would all be like that. They are not. A warning for anyone traveling to Munich. Many (maybe most) of the trams do not have credit card readers. They are cash only. Coins only - a stark contrast to our first ride, and a surprise to us. Be sure that you have adequate coins for riding the trams. Not only were they cash only, but they didn't have the modern digital readout the first one did, and we found it difficult to figure out. We wanted to be law abiding. We wanted to pay for our tickets. We found ourselves getting on train after train where we just couldn't seem to figure it out before our destination stop. So we rode a few times without paying. Several times. Not because we wanted to. We had read about the "ticket" police in each of these countries, but we think that maybe because we were there during Octoberfest, maybe they were being less "vigilant" about enforcement? For such a major city and major tourism destination, maybe upgrade? Maybe put machines outside the cars at the stops?
As soon as we got on the train things went south
THE MUNICH tram experience, however, turned out to be minor compared to our travel to Prague. A few things conspired together to fuel "Murphy's" fire. We were traveling during Octoberfest, a notoriously busy time not just for Munich, but for the entirety of Central Europe. As luck would have it, the earlier train for that day had been - for some reason - cancelled. And finally, our tickets indicated that we should board a certain section of the train, even though we had no assigned seats. It turned out that this was because they were dropping 4 cars about 1/2 way to Prague to be sent in another direction. This information - to the best of my knowledge, was never communicated to us. My wife and I boarded in the right place. For reasons I cannot remember, Bruce and Joyce did not board the same car as us.
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| Oberammergau, Bavaria Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
AS SOON as we got on the train things went south. As I mentioned, we had first class tickets. The cars were set up differently than any other train we rode during the entire trip, with a narrow hallway down one side and compartments with 8 seats (4 facing). They looked like they might have been comfortable. Not really efficient though. The problem was that every seat was already taken and the hallway was jammed full of people. We did not have assigned seats - just first class. We were informed at purchase that assigned numbers were not necessary. It turns out that matters on the German Rail system. Maybe. As we looked up and down the train (there was a coach class car immediately in front of us) the situation was the same. Every available space was jammed with people. This couldn't work, could it? Well guess what. The train pulled away from the station on time, with every car full of passengers jammed in like sardines. Think about that. Think about the safety issues, let alone comfort. And realize that this was to be at 5 plus hour train ride! We rode either standing or sitting on our bags the entire time. For the first time in my life, I developed plantar fasciatis at the very end of the trip. I am certain that the 5-hours of standing in a narrow passageway on a train was a prime contributor.
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| Aisle in First Class on German Train from Munich to Prague Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
THEN IT got even worse. When the train stopped at the stop where they were to drop cars, it turns out that Bruce and Joyce (along with 100's of other unknowing passengers) were on those cars. An announcement was made that if they were traveling on to Prague they would have to get off here and try to reboard on one of the remaining cars. As if that were possible. We didn't know all of that at the time and it was pretty disheartening to pull away and see our companions standing on the platform watching us go. They were told they would have to wait for a train the next day, or hire a car to get to Prague. They could try their luck at the next train coming, but it was also very full. It turns out that they fortunately were able to crowd on the next train - after about 2 hours of standing on the train platform.
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| Malestranska Tram Stop - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
WHEN WE finally pulled into the station at Prague, we were exhausted and frustrated. The Prague Train Station is quite modern and was well marked (if you speak Czech 😁). We somehow managed to find our way to the subway. We had directions from the Vrbo we were staying at which put us first on the subway and then to pick up a tram to our final destination. With the help of a very friendly expat from somewhere in Europe, we figured out the correct stop and finally made it. One of the really positive perks about being age 65 or older in Prague is that we are not charged for any form of public transportation, including trams, funiculars, busses, subway trains and boats. It was great for our stay there to be able to just jump on and not worry about the ticket thing (especially after Munich).
It is better very early in the morning
WE HAD been in contact with our travelmates, and it was clear that they would be at least 2 hours behind us. We refreshed and rested our feet a bit and then went out to explore. Our spot was right in the middle of Malostranska ("Lesser Town"), a bustling and very cool area just at the western end of the famed Charles Bridge. We quickly discovered the Malostranska entrance to the Charles Bridge, where we saw a mass of people! Here is a tip based on our local experience: It is better very early in the morning. We found a local market nearby and bought a few snack items and then went back to our home away from home for the next 4 days to get off our feet and relax. When Bruce and Joyce arrived an hour or so later, we all walked just down the street a few hundred feet to a nice "local flavor" restaurant.
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| Entrance to Charles Bridge - Malostranska - Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
IT GOT better from there. The ordeal over, and all things considered, we all ended the day in good spirits. We did not have a lot planned for Prague, but the next morning at 11:00 we did have a food tour, which was all in the Malastranka area and would give us a good "lay of the land" on that side of the river. As we walked the few steps back from the restaurant (one we would visit again, not only because it was very convenient, but we also liked the atmosphere, food and beer), darkness had fully fallen and the lit city streets gave us a preview of what was to come.
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| Malostranska - Prague, Czech Republic Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved |
PRAGUE WOULD turn out to be my favorite of the 5 cities we visited. After the first of the year, I will blog about our experience in Prague, and what I think were among the best of all the photographs I made on this the trip - during our 4 - day stay in Prague. In the meantime, I want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas!
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