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Sunday, December 29, 2024

2024 - The Year in Review

 

Sun setting in our rear view - Celebrity Apex - January 2024
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved
ALMOST EVERY year, I try to do a "year in review" type of blog at the end or right in the beginning of the New Year. Once again, 2024 was a full travel year, and we put 2 cruises and a major land-based trip abroad on the books. I have tried, in the past, to boil it down to one or two of my favorite images from each place we visit. This year, I couldn't do it. There were just too many "favorites." A warning, this will be a long post with lots of images.
For all these things, we are immeasurably thankful
I DIDN'T make my usual couple weeks in Michigan this past summer, due to a number of "logistics" issues. Our trips abroad included a short Caribbean "holiday," a long (nearly 3 weeks) trip to Japan which included circumnavigation of the main Island of Japan on our Holland America Westerdam cruise ship (I new line for us - not our first choice, but I have always said it is about the itinerary, and this was a good one), and and a 16-day "jaunt" to central Europe.

Sunset Sail-away on Celebrity Apex
Copyright Andy Richards 2023 - All Rights Reserved
FOR THE most part we think our move to the Tampa Bay/Clearwater, Florida area has been a resounding success. For the 10th or so time in as many years, I will be outdoors, poolside on our lanai on both Christmas Eve and New Years Eve. We moved here as much as for any other reason for the weather. We don't miss the snow and ice.

Celebrity Apex - 2024 "Holiday" Cruise - British Virgin Islands
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IRONICALLY, THE only downside has been the weather. 😶 This year Mother Nature decided to hammer us. We had 3 full hurricanes: Debby, Helene and Milton. Each had its impact on our area - differently, but devastatingly. Over the years, we have mostly dodged the proverbial "bullet" right here in Palm Harbor. For whatever reason, they seem to initially target us, but before making landfall, nearly always have turned their wrath either north or south of us enough that we really haven't had any ill affects.

Tokyo, Japan
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NOT THIS year. Debby hit the northern Florida in August. As seems to be the pattern, it turned away from Tampa and up north into the "Big Bend" (where Florida turns westward on the northern beaches of The Gulf of Mexico), where she swept across northern Florida as a Category 1 hurricane. She did a lot of damage to our neighbors to the north of us. From Debby we learned something new to us. It is not unusual when a hurricane sweeps across the northern part of Florida and enters the Atlantic for it to re-develop, turn northwest, and make landfall a second time. Debby did that and hammered the Atlantic coast, causing substantial coastal flooding, and heavy rainfall in the southeastern coastal states. As hurricanes go, a Category 1 is the lowest rating to earn the name "hurricane." One would think that was a "mild" one. But none of them really are. Our experience has been that even though we refer to it as "hurricane season," once we get one, we breath a sigh of relief and think we are done for the year.

Koishikawa Garden - Tokyo Japan
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved
NOT THIS year. We had already seen Beryl develop in the Caribbean, strengthen to a Category 5 (as high as can be) in the Gulf, and sweep north into eastern Texas, causing lots of damage over there. What many of us didn't anticipate (though anyone who lives here always knows they call it a "season" for a reason - I put my hurricane protection up at the first real prediction of a strike and leave them up usually until well into November) was that we would entertain not just another one. We would instead get hammered 2 more times, less than 3 weeks apart.

Seiryu-Ji Shrine - Aomori, Japan
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ON SEPTEMBER 26, Helene made landfall just north of Tampa Bay, once again in the Big Bend area as a Category 4. It had one of the biggest storm centers in recent history. Unfortunately, Helene also dragged the most significant coastal storm surge in modern history. That surge impacted the Florida coastline from well south of us (Sarasota and the barrier islands - Anna Maria Island and Siesta and Longboat Keys), all the way up into the Big Bend. We have friends who own a home just under 2 miles west (toward the Gulf) of us and they had 4-5 feet of water in their single story home. They gutted it and are in the process of completely rebuilding the interior. 100's of homes were similarly damaged. Maybe even worse, this quirky storm brought unprecedented rainfall to the mountains of Tennessee and North Carolina, creating disastrous flooding as swollen rivers flowed down and into towns which nobody ever dreamed would happen. For our own part, we had high winds and our only damage was one screen out of our lanai. Helene may have been statistically the worst of them to hit the west coast of Florida. Given the damage caused by Milton a few weeks following, I would be hard pressed to call one worse than the other. I suspect east Texas, Tennessee, and North Carolina residents would agree that the worst one is the one that lands near where you live.

Ikuta Shrine - Kobe, Japan
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ON OCTOBER 8, Milton made landfall just a little over a week and one-half; this time south of us on Siesta Key. Still reeling from Helene's impact, coastal regions and barrier Islands of Sarasota (Siesta, Longboat) and Bradenton (Anna Maria) were hammered. As high as a category 5 storm while approaching land in the Gulf, Milton had dissipated to a Category 3, still a devastating storm (winds to 120 mph). Again, a substantial storm surge contributed to the problem. What may have made Milton even worse though, was historical and unprecedented amounts of rainfall. While we did not get the full hurricane winds impact here in Palm Harbor, we got more rainfall in the space of a few hours than had ever been historically recorded.

Sorakuen Garden - Kobe, Japan
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WE HAVE been personally fortunate. Perhaps beyond what we deserve. Our home is in one of the highest points in Florida and is 2-plus miles away from the Gulf. We have had several hurricanes threaten us and we have been spared from the brunt of every one so far. We only worry about wind and we think our wind mitigation is sufficient to withstand anything but perhaps a dead-on Category 5 strike. Ironically, the 3 that have come closest to that all occured while we were gone. We commonly travel in September - October; right in the heart of the hurricane season. We left for Zurich, Switzerland on September 25, just a day before Helen struck. We returned to Tampa on October 10, just 2 days after Milton!

Sorakuen Garden - Kobe, Japan
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TURNING TO more positive things, we have only not been in our Palm Harbor home one time to usher in the New Year since we bought it some 10-plus years ago. in late December, 2023, we joined our close friends, Paul and Linda on the Celebrity Apex in Ft. Lauderdale shortly after Christmas to spend 7 days in the Caribbean. I recently blogged about that "holiday" cruise over on my other (cruising) blog: "I Am A Celebrity." It was probably the most fun and relaxing New Year celebration in my recent memory. It was cool to see a ship we have sailed on multiple times all decked out for the holidays. It was also nice that we had great weather and "endured" some spectacular sunrises over the ocean.

Yokohama - HAL Westerdam
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IN APRIL, we joined two couples we have gotten to know here in Florida (one we actually met during a cruise) on a 14-day cruise around Japan's main island, on the Holland America Westerdam. Our grandson currently lives in Tokyo and we went over a few days early and spent a few fun days in Tokyo; a very photogenic city.

Fukuoka, Japan - HAL Westerdam
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WE CRUISED from Yokohama, where we boarded the ship and set sail around Japan. It was a fun cruise with many great sites. We had a couple private tours - perhaps the best of them in Kobe. There were many rural destinations as well as a couple pretty interesting cities.

Sokcho, South Korea
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JAPAN MAY have a similar law to the U.S. "Passenger Vessel Services Act" (commonly mistakenly cited as "The Jones Act"), which requires that a ship originating and terminating in the U.S. to stop at at least one foreign port.  Whatever the reason, we had one stop in South Korea. I really liked that one and it was certainly a favorite on the trip, especially views of the port from our ship, as we sailed into the harbor.

Sokcho, South Korea
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APRIL IS pretty much during the cherry blossom season - especially in the northern part. Fortunately for us, the blossom was slightly late in Tokyo, giving me a chance to photograph many of them. The best, however, was on our last day, and was unfortunately only a "snapshot" opportunity. A little Photoshop work made it probably my favorite image of the entire trip.

Cherry Blossoms - Hakodate, Japan
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WE WOULDN'T travel again until September when we embarked on our long-anticipated trip to central Europe. The geopgraphic boundaries of "central Europe" for purposes of our trip would be The northern (German) part of Switzerland, Munich (Bavaria), Germany, Prague in the Czech Republic, and Berlin in northern Germany.

Octoberfest - Munich, Germany
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THE "ANCHOR" for this trip was Munich in terms of geography, and Oktoberfest in terms of timing. We traveled with our great friends and neighbors, Bruce and Joyce. Oktoberfest has been on Bruce's travel destination list for a long time. We have talked about it off and on over the several years we have known them, but it seems like we always opted for some other trip (we have done a North Sea/Iceland/Ireland/U.K. cruise, a trip to Portugal, and a long weekend in New Orleans). I think it was about time for us to give a nod to Bruce's wishes.

Zurich, Switzerland
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OF COURSE, our viewpoint is that we don't spend the money or take the time to do a single-destination trip. We planned about 15 days for this one, and while we were in the area, we decided to do Switzerland and end up in Berlin. We vacillated between Vienna and Prague. The swell of opinion seemed to be Prague and in a lean toward my desire to find a truly photogenic destination, we chose Prague. We were not disappointed!

Zurich, Switzerland
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WE SPENT 2 days traveling around Switzerland. One day was in the "storybook" town of Lucerne. It was beautiful, but unfortunately, we had unrelenting rainfall while there, making photographs less than optimal, and making for an overall "soggy" experience.

Rainy Lucerne - wet, but happy - travelers

WE STILL wouldn't have missed it. It is definitely "bucket list" material.

Kapellbrucke - Lucerne, Switzerland
Copyright Andy Richards 2024
ANOTHER DAY, we hired a driver to take us up (actually southwest - but up in altitude) into the Swiss Alps in an area known as the Bernese Oberland. Again, rain seemed to be the dominant factor, but on this day, we did get just a few "peeks" at some sunshine. The "grand landscape" shot of (or from) the mountains never really materialized, but I still made some nice area shots.

Bernise Oberland - Swiss Alps
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PERHAPS THE highlight of that day was an almost peripheral experience. When we were in Interlaken, we stopped for lunch and our restaurant was adjacent to a large park in the center of town. Even though the skies threatened to open up at any time, the paragliders were hard at it. As always, bright colors draw my eye. This may actually have been a time when the overcast skies created a beneficialy photographic atmosphere, rendering the colors bright and contrasty (where sun and/or blue sky might well have degraded that). I was able to make some cool images of the gliders as they came in for their landings in the field.

Paragliding in Interlaken, Switzerland
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INTERLAKEN IS known to be the center of the Swiss outdoor recreation center, with hiking, fishing, boating, skiing, climbing and of course, paragliding. The whole Bernese Oberland is much like that. At the end of our day we stopped in Grindelwald. I haven't ever seen that many outdoor outfitter shops in the same tiny little town. I would guess there were about 20 of them, all full of boots, down and fleece, gloves, hats, socks and on and on. Some of them were popular brands we have in our U.S. markets and some I didn't recognize. Looked like nice stuff and there were some tempting sale prices - except that I live in the Tampa Bay area. 😐

Grindelwald, Switzerland
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OUR DRIVER was just that. He was not a guide and his English appeared somewhat limited (though the advertizement said: "English-speaking driver"). Don't get me wrong. A very nice guy. Took us to all the right places. And we knew from the "get" that we weren't getting a professional guide. We didn't learn some of the local interest and world history tidbits we often get from a guide, but we got exactly what we paid for, so no complaints. Had to do some of the research on my own (mostly after we returned home and I started writing blog posts). Grindelwald is a base for one of the most famous mountaineering spots: Eiger. There are three spectacular, tall sheer faces of the Alps here. Eiger is famous for its "North Face," one of the most difficult climbs in the world. There have been a few deaths of climbers here over the years. It is popularly thought that the Eiger "North Face" was the inspiration for the popular outdoor outfitting company. A bit of research reveals that that is not wholly true. But it is one of the inspirations. On most of these climbing destinations, the north face of the mountain is typically the most challenging because - well -it faces north (where the worst of the weather mostly comes from).

Somewhere in the Bernise Oberland - Swiss Alps
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WE HAD one final day in Zurich. I haven't said much about Zurich, but it is a very interesting town. We were particularly impress with how clean, well-organized, and modern things were in a very old city. Our hotel was right on a short bridge and road that crossed the river. The main train station was accross that bridge. The tram system was wonderful. Lots of the city is walkable. That all made getting around a snap. Every country has - more or less - its own food and traditions. On first glance, Switzerland isn't really notable, but they do have some of their own traditions. My friend, Bob (more below) says that the "gourmet" of Switzerland is "peasant food." Before modern Switzerland emerged, the country and region was mostly agricultural and rural living. The two remarkable "entrees" we had in Switzerland were the relatively well known cheese fondue (we found a great spot in Lucerne), and Raclette, which is mainly meat (usually) - like our "cold cuts," potatoes, and melted cheese. It might sound kind of plain, but trust me, it is delicious.

The two remarkable "entrees" we had in Switzerland were . . . cheese Fondue . . . and Raclette
ON THIS last day, I had an experience I had been waiting a long time (years) for. My law school roomate recently retired from his job as assistant General Counsel for a worldwide pharmaceutical company, headquartered in Zurich. By now a long-time (dual) Swiss resident, Bob owns a beautiful home in suburban Zurich. We spent a good part of the day visiting him and his delightful wife in his home, where they we had our first experience with Raclette, along with some fine wine. The Swiss have a machine they put in the middle of the table that has accomodations for multiple users to melt the cheese. You can bet I have a raclette machine on my Amazon list. 😋 It was great to catch up - and it was literally as if we had seen each other regularly over the years. It was the first time in probably 25 years! Certainly a highlight of my 2024! The next morning we headed across the street to the Rail Station, headed for our second (perhaps the main event) destination: Munich. The "balloon" hanging prominently in the middle of the station is supposed to be a protector of sorts.

Zurich Haouptbanhof "Protector"
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EUROPE BEING much older than the U.S., most of these cities date back many hundreds of years (I often think that we in the U.S. don't appreciate this fact). Most cities have an "old town" dating back to at least - and often well before - Medieval times. This made all of them have photogenic components. Munich's history is strongly tied to beer - and secondarily to food which, not surprisingly, pairs well with beer. Roasted chicken, roasted pork (especially the knuckle) and a large variety of sausage seem to be the staples in Munich. We sampled our share of all of that. One of the most popular eating establishment are the brewery-sponsored "Beer Halls."

Munich, Germany
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OF COURSE there was Oktoberfest. the festival goes on for at least a week. It draws huge crowds and for the most part the best way to partake is to purchase a ticket to one or more of the tents. We did that for one of our days. It is one of those "you want to say you have done it things." Afterward, my personal take is that it is somewhat overblown. Cool, but not maybe living up to the hype. Lots of commercial touches with souvenir shops (certainly mostly made in China) and prices. Having said that, I surely do not regret it having checked it off and being able to say: "been there, done that."

Octoberfest - Munich, Germany
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MUNICH WAS fun. We saw most of the obligatory tourist sites, like the Glockenspiel in Marienplatz and the Viktuellianplatz. Once again rain seemed to be the weather du jour.

Old City Hall (with its famous Glockenspiel)
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ONE OF our 4 days in Munich was taken up by a trip to the Bavarian Alps - and mainly to two famous castles built by King Ludwig: Linderhof and Neuschwanstein (famous for being Walt Disney's inspiration for the castles in his movies and at his theme parks). Both were ornate. Both were photogenic.

Nueschwanstein Castle - Bavarian Alps
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NEUSCHWANSTEIN CASTLE was especially fun to photograph because of its setting. It is perched high up on a mountainside with spectacular views from the castle. At a spot about the same height there is a walking bridge (Marienbrucke) some distance away from the castle that is a magnificent viewpoint. I made multiple (repetitive) shots from there. I wasn't going to walk away without some choices later. It was high on my "bucket" list and I was glad to be able to check it off.

Linderhoff Castle - Bavarian Alps
Copyright Andy Richards 2024
IN THE heart of (and fittingly the capitol) Bavaria, I wouldn't hesitate to visit Munich again. Indeed, I would probably schedule even more time up in the Alps on a second trip.
Oberammergau, Germany (Bavarian Alps)
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AFTER OUR 4 days in Munich, we again boarded a train for Prague, Czechnia (Czech Republic), where we stayed yet another 4 days. For photography, it was clearly the apex of the trip for me. This mostly medieval "flavored" city is full of both "traditional" and creative photographic opportunies. We stayed right in the heart of the city across the river from the main old town. We were literally steps from the Charles Bridge with great and walkable access to all parts of the city. Prague has a great public transportation system, consting at its center, of the tram system. One great visitor perk: all modes of public transportation is free for anyone 65 or older. Rather than try to narrate each day, I will just post a series of Prague images below.

Charles Bridge at morning Twilight
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St. Vitus Cathedral - Prague Castle
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Prague Castle - St. Vitus Cathedral
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Old Town - Prague
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Malastronska (Lesser Town) - Prague
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Under The Charles Bridge - Prague
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Spiral Staircase - Kubist Museum - Prague
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Bridges over the Vltava River - Prague
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LEAVING PRAGUE was hard. I could easily have stayed longer. We were in a great location. There was more to photograph. There were more sites to see. We had taken a food/walking tour on our first day and there was more food to sample. I was (and had been even from the planning stage) "lukewarm about our next destination: Berlin (wrongly, it turns out). Time doesn't stop. Onward.

Berlin, Germany
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OUR FINAL destination was Berlin. I was prepared to be underwhelmed. It was a good thing I had spent some hours doing research and watching You-Tube videos, or I might actually been shocked. The difference between Munich (Bavaria) and Berlin is pretty stark. Munich is a traditional, old German (Bavarian) city with lots of medieval influence in architecture and design. Berlin (having been largely destroyed in WWII) is a much newer, more modern city. Most of the architecture reflects a modern approach. Berlin is one of the largest cities in Europe. It is also very cosmopolitan. While there is much history there, it doesn't impress so much as a "German" city, as it does an "international" modern, metropolitan city.

Checkpoint Charlie - Berlin, Germany
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OF COURSE, I wanted to see the wall, including the famous "checkpoint Charlie." What really impressed me though, was the amount and variety of visual subjects in the city, from the grandiose buildings, to street art.

"Mr. Gorbachev! Tear down this . . ."  (well; you know the rest)
Berlin, Germany
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FITTINGLY FOR a capitol city, Berlin has many grandiose elements - particularly the governmental buildings; and many uniquely modern, but still grandiose structures. Unfortunately the Brandenburg Gate is under renovation and the construction equipment made it not only difficult to approach, but much to cluttered with equipment to make any images I thought would be pleasing. During our first day, we took the hop-on-hop-off bus for a tour of the city. We have learned that it is usually best to take the entire loop on these busses without getting off. We saw much of the city, including the massive and impressive governmental center/buildings, but alas, we did not get back there. Geographically compared to all the other cities we spent time in, Berlin is huge.

Commercial Office Building - Berlin, Germany
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SURPRISINGLY TO me, the "hugeness" made for lots and lots to do and see. Even with 3 days in the city, we left many things behind. When we arrived in the Berlin Train Station the first afternoon, we found a travel office and purchased one of the "Berlin Passes" (there are a couple different variations, so it behooves you to do some research first - which we had done). We concluded that the pass was worth the cost to us because of its diversity. The pass covered all modes of public transportation, including trains, subway and trams within the city (there is another one that will add destinations outside the city, including the airport if you want that). Being able to get on and off the subway and trams without an worries about fares made it worth it to us. In addition, our pass gave us a river tour, a day on the hop-on-hop-of, and discounted and/or free entry to museums (we, unfortunately, did not have time to hit any of the museums - so that will be a priority next time).

Berlin, Germany
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EVEN WITH the 35-some odd years since the wall came down and reunification was begun, West Berlin and East Berlin have some very different character. We learned, for example, that there are no trams (or tracks) in West Berlin. Presumably when it was rebuilt they went with the subway system instead. Too bad. I have really liked the trams in every city we have been where they are prominent (Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Zurich, Prague, Munich, and Tokyo to name a few). In East Berlin, on the other hand, trams are a prominent feature. There was a slightly more "old Europe" feel to East Berlin. While we really enjoyed our hotel in West Berlin, I think if/when we return, I would like to stay in, or much closer to, East Berlin. In my upcoming (2025) Blog posts on our days in Berlin, I mention a word that kind of fits 
Berlin: "eclectic." I think the image below, with its touches of Asia, Old European, and modern art and architecture might best illustrate the city.

Berlin, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024
I MENTIONED food earlier in reference to Switzerland. The food culture in both Bavaria and Prague were - to me - remarkably similar. Both places focus on beer and often "heavy" foods like meat and potatoes that match up well with beer. Both have a tendency to claim they are the world-center of beer. Foods were good and hearty and "german" in my view. Sausages, chicken, pork, schnitzel. Not gourmet-remarkable, but good. We learned, though, not to expect "german" food to be a big part of Berlin. As a city with a large international mix and influence, there are a lot of other "ethnic" cuisines; or at least ethnic-influenced. One such ethnic-german fusion food is a uniquely Berlin food, though: curryworst. Not being a fan of curry (for numerous unrelated reasons), I did not go out of my way to find or taste this. My bad. On our first evening, we did a "food" tour around central Berlin (including parts of both West and East Berlin). One of our stops was a curryworst restaurant, so, of course I tried it. Loved it! Had it for lunch at least one other time. If you are in Berlin, you must have the curryworst!


AS LARGE as Berlin feels, our tour the first afternoon/evening took us to some onclaves that were cozy, and we found some wonderful street art that was clearly part of a planned space. I may have made my most memorable photos there.

Berlin, Germany
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EVEN THOUGH modern and largely re-built, there are still many old, pre-war buildings mixed in with the new and modern; most notably churches.

Berlin, Germany
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OUR BERLIN hotel was mildly quirky, with a markedly modern exterior. Much like our Munich hotel, it was set in a quiet, "neighborhood" setting with a bustling restaurant scene one street over, and close proximity to a subway station. The modern, commercial/retain area of West Berlin was maybe a 15-minute walk away. Bruce and I enjoyed a couple "cigar walks" around that neighborhood and of course, I toted my camera.

Near our Berlin Hotel
Berlin, Germany
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NOT FOR the first time, Berlin was a place where my low expectations were really kind of blown away. I found it to be one of those cities that just keeps giving photo-ops around nearly every corner. Given time and opportunity, I would go back in a heartbeat.

Nollendorf Subway Stop near our Berlin Motel
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THE EUROPE trip was a fitting crescendo to yet another eventful year. It was really the end of our traveling for the year. We are already looking forward to the next year, as we have travel plans to London and Norway already on the calendar. We will also be joining some good friends on a Caribbean Cruise in March/April. I have a springtime photo trip with tow of my best friends and fellow shooters in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in April. Who knows what/where else we will be?

One of my favorite Berlin Images - "Street Art"
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WE HAVE been very fortunate over the years, and no more so than in 2024. We have crossed both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans to visit new places, and experience new cultures. We have our good health, and have eluded the terrible forces of nature. We were favored with the month-long visit from our one and only grandson and his mom over the Christmas and New Year's holidays. We are blessed with family and many wonderful friends all over the world. For all these things, we are immeasurably thankful. We wish all of our friends, family and acquaintances a prosperous and above-all, happy 2025!



Sunday, December 22, 2024

The Road to Prague

Zurich, Switzerland
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I STARTED this series out by commenting on how impressed we were with efficiency of the Swiss in nearly everything they do, but particularly how well we like the Swiss train system. I also mentioned things in terms of vaunted Swiss and German efficiency, at the same time foreshadowing a different story. From everything we knew we expected the German setup to be, clean and efficient. From everything we experienced in Switzerland we expected the German setup to be as ultraefficient and well run as the Swiss. For the most part, our experience in Munich was only with their tram system, and it appeared to be mostly efficient and well run, with one (unfortunately recurring) issue.

A warning for anyone traveling to Munich. Many (maybe most) of the trams do not have credit card readers. They are cash only - coins only

IN MUNICH, as we exited the train station and found the trams, we found that there were ticket dispensing machines right in the train cars. The first one we boarded had a modern, seemingly efficient, credit card reading machine and we rather easily procurred tickets for 4 of us. We assumed (and you know what that means) that they would all be like that. They are not. A warning for anyone traveling to Munich. Many (maybe most) of the trams do not have credit card readers. They are cash only. Coins only - a stark contrast to our first ride, and a surprise to us. Be sure that you have adequate coins for riding the trams. Not only were they cash only, but they didn't have the modern digital readout the first one did, and we found it difficult to figure out. We wanted to be law abiding. We wanted to pay for our tickets. We found ourselves getting on train after train where we just couldn't seem to figure it out before our destination stop. So we rode a few times without paying. Several times. Not because we wanted to. We had read about the "ticket" police in each of these countries, but we think that maybe because we were there during Octoberfest, maybe they were being less "vigilant" about enforcement? For such a major city and major tourism destination, maybe upgrade? Maybe put machines outside the cars at the stops?

As soon as we got on the train things went south

THE MUNICH tram experience, however, turned out to be minor compared to our travel to Prague. A few things conspired together to fuel "Murphy's" fire. We were traveling during Octoberfest, a notoriously busy time not just for Munich, but for the entirety of Central Europe. As luck would have it, the earlier train for that day had been - for some reason - cancelled. And finally, our tickets indicated that we should board a certain section of the train, even though we had no assigned seats. It turned out that this was because they were dropping 4 cars about 1/2 way to Prague to be sent in another direction. This information - to the best of my knowledge, was never communicated to us. My wife and I boarded in the right place. For reasons I cannot remember, Bruce and Joyce did not board the same car as us. 

Oberammergau, Bavaria
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AS SOON as we got on the train things went south. As I mentioned, we had first class tickets. The cars were set up differently than any other train we rode during the entire trip, with a narrow hallway down one side and compartments with 8 seats (4 facing). They looked like they might have been comfortable. Not really efficient though. The problem was that every seat was already taken and the hallway was jammed full of people. We did not have assigned seats - just first class. We were informed at purchase that assigned numbers were not necessary. It turns out that matters on the German Rail system. Maybe. As we looked up and down the train (there was a coach class car immediately in front of us) the situation was the same. Every available space was jammed with people. This couldn't work, could it? Well guess what. The train pulled away from the station on time, with every car full of passengers jammed in like sardines. Think about that. Think about the safety issues, let alone comfort. And realize that this was to be at 5 plus hour train ride! We rode either standing or sitting on our bags the entire time. For the first time in my life, I developed plantar fasciatis at the very end of the trip. I am certain that the 5-hours of standing in a narrow passageway on a train was a prime contributor.

Aisle in First Class on German Train from Munich to Prague
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

THEN IT got even worse. When the train stopped at the stop where they were to drop cars, it turns out that Bruce and Joyce (along with 100's of other unknowing  passengers) were on those cars. An announcement was made that if they were traveling on to Prague they would have to get off here and try to reboard on one of the remaining cars. As if that were possible. We didn't know all of that at the time and it was pretty disheartening to pull away and see our companions standing on the platform watching us go. They were told they would have to wait for a train the next day, or hire a car to get to Prague. They could try their luck at the next train coming, but it was also very full. It turns out that they fortunately were able to crowd on the next train - after about 2 hours of standing on the train platform.

Malestranska Tram Stop - Prague, Czech Republic
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

WHEN WE finally pulled into the station at Prague, we were exhausted and frustrated. The Prague Train Station is quite modern and was well marked (if you speak Czech 😁). We somehow managed to find our way to the subway. We had directions from the Vrbo we were staying at which put us first on the subway and then to pick up a tram to our final destination. With the help of a very friendly expat from somewhere in Europe, we figured out the correct stop and finally made it. One of the really positive perks about being age 65 or older in Prague is that we are not charged for any form of public transportation, including trams, funiculars, busses, subway trains and boats. It was great for our stay there to be able to just jump on and not worry about the ticket thing (especially after Munich).

It is better very early in the morning

WE HAD been in contact with our travelmates, and it was clear that they would be at least 2 hours behind us. We refreshed and rested our feet a bit and then went out to explore. Our spot was right in the middle of Malostranska ("Lesser Town"), a bustling and very cool area just at the western end of the famed Charles Bridge.  We quickly discovered the Malostranska entrance to the Charles Bridge, where we saw a mass of people! Here is a tip based on our local experience: It is better very early in the morning. We found a local market nearby and bought a few snack items and then went back to our home away from home for the next 4 days to get off our feet and relax. When Bruce and Joyce arrived an hour or so later, we all walked just down the street a few hundred feet to a nice "local flavor" restaurant.

Entrance to Charles Bridge - Malostranska - Czech Republic
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

IT GOT better from there. The ordeal over, and all things considered, we all ended the day in good spirits. We did not have a lot planned for Prague, but the next morning at 11:00 we did have a food tour, which was all in the Malastranka area and would give us a good "lay of the land" on that side of the river. As we walked the few steps back from the restaurant (one we would visit again, not only because it was very convenient, but we also liked the atmosphere, food and beer), darkness had fully fallen and the lit city streets gave us a preview of what was to come.

Malostranska - Prague, Czech Republic
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

PRAGUE WOULD turn out to be my favorite of the 5 cities we visited. After the first of the year, I will blog about our experience in Prague, and what I think were among the best of all the photographs I made on this the trip - during our 4 - day stay in Prague. In the meantime, I want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas!

Saturday, December 14, 2024

The Bavarian Alps

The Bavarian Alps
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 -All Rights Reserved

WE SPENT 4 days in Zurich (and surrounds), Munich (and Bavaria), and Prague. We probably should have spent 4 in Berlin, but our travel plans only accomodated 3. There was much more to do in every place.

Oberammergau - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved
WE SPENT our final day in Munich - well, mostly out of Munich. We were signed up for a tour of castles in the Bavarian Alps. I could see from this trip that I could easily have spent another day in rural Bavaria. We drove through some villages that looked photographically intriguing; in particular Oberamergau, a very "Bavarian" village known for its performance of "The Passion Play," in its "Passion Play Theatre." The town has traditional Bavarian style gable roofed architecture, and several buildings whose exteriors are painted with frescoes. In addition, the villiage is know all over the world for its skilled and often intricate wood carving, a tradition dating back to the 12th century. The village had strong ties to Bavarian King Ludwig II (known alternately as "The Mad King," or "The Fairy Tale King" - more on that subject below). For a really detailed and interesting read, check out this blog post from Tricia's Travels. Ober (upper?) and its neighboring Unterammergau (lower?) share similarities and are both on the banks of the Ammer River.


Linderhof Palace - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

ASIDE FROM the relentless gloomy rain, these villages looked like great spots to stop and wander with a camera. Our day, however, was already well-planned. The 3 architectural wonders we were to visit were nearly 100 miles from Munich, involving an already long commute to and from the places; a palace and two castles (though one of them involved only some views from a distance). With time for stops and some walking to and from the destinations, our day was full.

Linderhof Palace - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

OUR FIRST stop for the day was Schloss Linderhof. I mentioned above that we would come back to King Ludwig II. Ludwig ascended to the throne in 1864, at the tender age of 18, upon the death of his father, Maximillian II (of Bavaria - not to be confused with Holy Roman Emperor Maximillian II who lived and died a few centuries earlier). Ludwig was apparently and odd sort who withdrew from the rigors of ruling and immersed himself almost totally in the arts and architecture. He was apparently wise enough, however, to maintain the policies of his father and retain all of his ministers. During his reign, he commissioned 3 elaborate palaces.Two of them, Schloss Linderhof (Linderhof Palace) and Schloss Neuschanstein (Neuschwanstein Castle) were the main events of our excursion. Readers may recall from an old blog post here that the difference between a palace and a castle is that the latter is fortified - usually with at least a wall and often a moat. The germans use the word "schloss" to cover both.

Linderhof Palace - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024

BECAUSE OF his isolation from world and focus on the arts, including architecture and music (Ludgwig was a primary patron of composer Richard Wagner, and rescued him from near bankruptcy), Ludwig - even though King of Bavaria - became alternatively known as "The Mad King," "The Fairy Tale King." or "The Swan King" (Neunschwanstein translates to "New Swanstone" in English - Ludwig apparently loved swans). He was also a bit of a "night owl," often sleeping through most of the day and active during the night. Remember that when he started out, he was only 18. Sounds awfully familiar in coparison to my own teens back in the day. Both of these castles demonstrate Ludwig's affinity for the art of the day, and demonstrate the reasoning behind these nicknames. Photography of any kind was not allowed in the interior of this remarkably small palace, so you will have to take my word for it that it was very ornate. I think the interior of Linderhof is a greater demonstration of Ludwig's artistic and extravagant tastes, while his second commissioned work - Neuschwanstein is much more dramatic in its exterior. It is said that Linderhof borrowed much of its inspiration from Versailles in France (itself inspired by Louis XIV - "The Sun King"). Narrative also notes that much of the interior decoration is in the style of Rococo. To my eye, it was extravagantly ornate, with some very expensive and perhaps rare materials used in its construction and furnishings.

The spectacular formal gardens showing fall color in the background - Linderhof Palace - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

THE PALACE is about a 15-20 minute hike from the parking area up a grade to the grounds. Photographically, it was worth the hike. I sure wish we could have maybe seen a peek of sun though. During our visit to Linderhof, it kept up a steady drizzle. In some respects, the wet saturated subject may have photographed better though. At first blush the palace itself doesn't feel as large or grandiose as many we have seen throughout Europe, as can be seen from the front on view. The grounds, on the other hand, are remarkable. As you move away from the palace itself, the layers of landcape and grounds seem to make it grow in splendor.

Gardens and Music Pavillion - Linderhof Palace - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

THE FRONT of the main castle faces the formal gardens, whose central feature is a large pool with a gold fountain in the center. At the rear of the building, there is another garden, with a man-made grotto, fronted by another fountain. As you can see in the far back of the photo, there is a very small music pavillion. The motif here seems to be gold, green, black and with, accented with bright flowers in many places.

Linderhof Palace Garden - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

TO THE sides, there are additional, smaller and more intimate gardens, of equal beauty and detail of design. A major feature of the main garden, though is the remarkable mechanics of the fountain in the middle of the pool. The water that feeds the fountain comes from the mountains in the background, with a source apparently high enough above the fountain itself to create substantial water pressure. There is a valve that shuts the source down most of the time, but at intervals, the valve opens and the viewer is treated to a show. My composite shows the fountain as it slowly builds to its apex, and eventually dies back down. Considering its age, it is a pretty amazing sight.

The Fountain at Linderhof Palace - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved
THERE ARE a couple other interesting pieces in the park that is now the grounds of Linderhof, notably a Moorish Kiosk and a Moroccan House, both originally constructed for International Exhibitions in Paris and Vienna, respectively. We walked by the Moroccan House but did not have time to stop, or to find and visit the Moorish Kiosk. Maybe next time.

Schloss Hohenschwangau (Alpsee in the background) - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

LUDWIG II attended the Passion Play (perhaps multiple times), but rather than staying in Oberammergau, he stayed in the nearby little village of Hohenschwangau ("the Swan District"), at Schloss Hohenschwangau, his own childhood summer residence, which was built by his father, Maximillian II. Interstingly, at the time, this castle was known as "Schwanstein." Ludwig continued to live there after taking the throne, even after 869 when construction commenced on Neuenschwanstein ("New Schwanstein"). Hohenschwangau is open to visitors and it would have been nice to have toured it. Neither our purchased excursion, nor time permitted this trip, however. For this trip at least, I would have be happy with the opportunity to photograph it. I made a few, but my best perspective was from high above, on the road up to Neuschwanstein Castle.

From Neuschwanstein - Alpsee, the village of Hohenschwangau, and Hohenschwangau Castle
Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

SCHLOSS NEUSCHWANSTEIN was built on a high bluff high above Hohenschwangau, with dramatic views both of it from several vantage points below, and from it as one can see sweeping views of the valley below. Wikipedia describes Neuschwanstein as a "Romanesque fortress with soaring fairy tale towers." The description is most certainly apt, and its dramatic profile has made it perhaps the world's most famous castle. Indeed, Neuschwanstein is the inspiration of Disney fame, as none other than Walt Disney himself visited the castle in the 1950's and the castle not only inspired the famed Disney Logo, but the castle in the first Disney recreational property, DisneyLand in Anaheim, CA, is pretty much a direct replica. Since then the replica castle has been the central attraction in the layout of the other Disney properties - notable perhaps the biggest, Disney World, in Orlando, Florida. The castle has also been feature in Disney movies like Sleeping Beauty and Cinderella, among others.

Marienbrucke - The view of the Castle - Schloss Neuschwanstein - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

PHOTOGRAPHING THIS castle may have been my primary goal during our stay in Munich. I have seen prints and photographs of the castle from a couple different viewpoints and am not sure where some of them are. The most popular viewpoint is the Marienbrucke ("Marie's Bridge, named by Ludwig II after his mother), which crosses The Pollat, a relatively small, rollicking stream deep in a gorge near the castle. The footbridge crosses the gorge, which opens to a spectacular view of the Castle and the valley beyond. The bridge is a very popular spot and there will be a wait in most instances to get to the bridge from the dropoff point of the shuttle up from Hohenschangau. I waited probably from 10-15 minutes. It was my first time there, and I was having a hard time visualizing what was happening, until I made it to the actual bridge. It really doesn't go anywhere, so once you have shouldered your way out, you must eventually return. That makes for a real logjam of bodies.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

IS IT worth the wait and the elbowing crowd? I think so. You be the judge. I got lucky for my few minutes of fame, as not only did the rain stop, but a sliver of blue sky and sunshine broke out. Photographically, probably better light than a full, sunny sky would be, as we were there about mid-afternoon. When I get a opportunity like this, knowing it might be my one and only opportunity, I tend to go overboard. I made a lot of shots which on later review seem awfully similar. Better, I guess, to have more than you need.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Bavaria, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

I AM (slowly) learning to take a moment to make a snap or two of these kinds of places with my smart phone. I don't often have the time or ambition to post process images on site and post them to social media, or send them to friends. It is much easier to do that from the phone. I made several of that here. On the computer screen it is really difficult for me to tell the difference at web-level resolution. That technology just keeps getting better. I also had the fun opportunity of offering to take a handful of shots of couples and even one family, with the castle in the background. Knowing a little about photography meant I think they got better shots. There were many folks either taking selfies, or of each other where it was obvious they were not getting an optimal framing of the shot with the castle. It was fun to be useful!

Neuschwanstein Castle - Bavaria, Germany
(made with my Samsung S21 smartphone)
Copyright Andy Richards 2024 - All Rights Reserved

THERE IS a "crows nest" that is up even higher, across the bridge and along a pretty narrow, slippery and potentially treacherous trail past the bridge that eventually turns again upward. It is dirt and narrow. I saw the people up there, but I had an entry time at the castle for the interior tour and didn't think I would have time. I wonder, though, if that is one of the viewpoints I have seen in print? If we ever get back, I will - health and fitness willing - venture up there. The only other real shots were after I left the bridge and took the trail (about a 10-minute walk) back down to the castle entrance. None of them were spectacular, as this one illustrates.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Bavaria, Germany
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THERE ARE three ways to get up to the castle. You can take a shuttle (tickets can be purchased at the base in Hohenschwangau for about 4 euro - if memory serves it is cash only). It takes you up to a dropoff point where the road forks - toward the castle, or toward the Marienbrucke). I did that. You can take a horse-drawn carriage, again from the base in Hohenschwangau, which drops of and picks up about 5 minuts from the castle gate. I don't know what the price of that is. I do know we should have planned to take it back down off the mountain. The third way you can go is to walk it. I wouldn't recommend that, unless you are a seasoned hiker and have plenty of proverbial gas in the tank. It is a steady uphill grade all the way up. The map they handed out from Hohenschwangau says it is a 40-minute walk. NOPE! We often find that the estimates are generous and it is usually shorter. Not in this case. Thinking the walk down the hill would be easier, we opted for that, thinking that if is was 40 mins uphill, it might be 30 mins downhill. Our guide said 15. We were both wrong. For us that is understandable, but I seriously doubt anybody could make the climb in 40 minutes. Bruce did walk up, but he stopped and rested several times and he took over an hour. It took us nearly 45 minutes to get down. That could have been o.k., but our guide gave us a time to be back at the bus (and we knew that if we were seriously late, they could leave without us). For the guide that is not understandable. If fact it is inexcusable. This wasn't - as they say - her first rodeo. She presented as having done this many times. The one and only complaint I have about the excursion folks for the day. Otherwise it was great. But she and I had a conversation when I reached the bottom. My wife desperately needed to be able to slow down and to stop and rest on one of the benches placed along the way, but we were afraid, particularly as our 15 minutes turned into 30, and then 40, that we might not make it on time. The only solace was that we weren't alone. Give a better estimate of times!

Horse Carriage - Neuschwanstein Castle - Bavaria, Germany
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WE MOSTLY napped on our bus ride back to Munich. We ended at the now-familiar Karlsplatz. We were tired, but also hungry and thirsty. Neither Bruce nor I had lunch. It all played well into our scheme, though. One of the items we had wanted to check off was to try one of the Augustiner Beer halls. We had been given a recommendation for them. I am sure that any of the other beer halls would have been fine, but I remembered the first one we had seen on our walking tour the first day in Munich. I also knew that it was about a 5 minute walk past Karlstor (Karlsplatz Gate) - so right around the corner. It met expectations well. The beer was fresh and cold and the food was good. We finished refreshed and after the short tram ride back to the Opera, were ready to retire. And ready for our next adventure. We had a 9:30 a.m. train scheduled for Prague the next day. We had opted for first class and knew the tram number and timing to arrive well ahead of schedule. What could go wrong? Hint: Mr. Murphy was out in his full splendor the next day. 😠

STAY TUNED.